Posts & Pics Will Be Updated

Hi all. Had a good night's and morning's sleep. Great to be back with the fam! Sadly, Doreen lost her engagement diamond while I was gone. Bummer!

Just to let those of you who get blog feed updates know that I'll be adding some pics from my camera (better quality than the phone) and additional info to some posts (much easier on the computer than the phone), so you might want to turn off your notifications.

Again, thanks for coming on the trip with me!

Graham

What's the Kosher K Gonna Do Now?

Here the two kiwis sit at Newark Airport, contemplating the end of the road. Thanks for coming along on our journey, and humoring us in our ramblings. We've enjoyed it, and Kiwi Jnr says, "Who cares about anyone else?" (I've just bent his beak so he won't be saying things like that again for a while).

So what's next? Kiwi Jnr is looking for his gold retirement watch, but I've told him to go hang it on his beak. So here's what may be in the feathers in the future (but no promises):

• Maybe one last deep and meaningful Israel post, or two, if I can get my head and schedule together after Sunday.
• Maybe a "new and improved, bionic and resurrected" Kosher Kiwi as we move towards Israel 2012, for those who are getting goose bumps like me just thinking about going.
• Maybe we'll expand the franchise into a new brand of blog altogether: "The Contemplative Kiwi." First post courtesy of my old mate and mentor Geoff Smith: "Roses are red, violets are bluish; if it wasn't for Jesus, we'd all be Jewish."

That's it from kiwi 1 and kiwi 2 for now, and maybe forever.

Rejoicing in Him and the joy of life (and sometimes the pain),

Graham

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Back on Terra Americana

Sitting here at Newark airport and contemplating getting home seven hours later than planned. The word "contemplated" is overly generous in describing my current level of cognition. I'll have been up from Monday 6am Israeli time to Wednesday 8am Israeli time by the time the pillow in Stoughton beckons. If my abacus serves me right, that's 50 hours. Many blogs have met their demise when being written under such conditions. Did I mention that the elders assume no responsibility for the content of waltzing Matilda, waltzing Matilda, you'll come a waltzing Matilda with me.

A cappuccino, a glazed Dunkin donut and a call to my sweet, and I'm ready for the next 100 hours. Sounds almost like a presidential agenda. Item 1: Waltzing Matilda.

Ok, time to get spiritual. My meal was kosher as proven by the righteous certificate above. This trip has kind of fried my circuits in lots of expected ways, and some very unexpected ways. I'm hoping to share authentically (as opposed to inauthentically) this coming Sunday in both services. I think I'll share the story of the very Jewish grandma who was very unhappy with me on the plane, and how she connects to what I've been learning about Judaism and God and Israel and church and me and many things. But not waltzing Matilda.

This trip has been (WARNING: CLICHE COMING!) such a life-changer. Ok, I'm no taller, but I feel taller. Seriously, it's been quite profound. From a learning and experiencing point of view, I mean. Forget the tall nonsense. God is bigger. Jesus is dearer. And Israel is more something than it ever was before. The Bible too. Hard to explain it to you. Better to experience it with you. HOW ABOUT WE GO TO THE HOLY LAND IN MARCH 2012?

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

He is Risen. End of Story.

And the beginning of the best story of all! How appropriate to visit the Garden Tomb on our very last day. Beside it, outside the garden with winepresses and huge dug-out cistern (Joseph of Arimathea was a rich man), is the likely location of Golgotha. So much can be and has been said about this site, I'm not going to say much more (besides, it's 3 am and our plane is late leaving and my brain feels like blended falafel).

The shot on the right is intriguing. In the debate over which is the actual site of Jesus' tomb, and which is the genuine site of Golgotha, the black and white photo may have something to contribute. Taken before more recent erosion changed the "face" of the cliff, consider the face on the cliff, which looks like the two eyes and mouth of a skull. "They came to a place called Golgotha (which means The Place of the Skull)" - Matthew 27:33.

It was so refreshing to be in this peaceful garden setting, rather miraculously aquired by the Brits over a hundred years ago, and now administered by them. The volunteer who took us around the site did a fantastic job, and also had the gospel in there -- a first. The site is so unadorned and natural. The quiet, humble God-man who wandered the streets of Jerusalem 2000 years ago is, to my sensibilities, much more present here than in the most ornate human edifice, of which we've seen many.

The One who humbled himself and became obedient to death, even death on a cross outside the city gates, is going to return to this city with power and claim the throne of his father, David, in the city of the great King. This will be a throne and a rule and a reign like the world had never seen. And he shall reign forever and ever.

For, he said, "Don't be afraid! I am the First and the Last. I am the living one who died. Look, I am alive forever and ever!" (Revelation 1:17, 18).

Golgotha

Charcoal by Julia Blaikie

The Garden of Gethsemane

What words of mine can possibly do justice to the events that happened here?

This Olive Tree in the Garden of Gethsemane is over 2000 years old!

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Upper Room & Tomb of David

The pic is actually the tomb of Absalom, David's much-loved, but wayward son. We did see David's tomb, but the area is being renovated. We also saw the Upper Room, which was pretty meaningful, even if a church was erected over the original site. That's pretty much the order of the day or the millennium in Jerusalem, and so the discerning pilgrim is to be advised that not every site is entirely certain, layer upon layer has been built up on most of the sites, and sometimes religious fervor and kingdom/church building does more to detract from than enhance the sites and the spiritual experience.

That's why I liked the Sea of Galilee so much. No one can move it or build a church on it (one would be there if it could be done). Also Capernaum and certainly the Garden of Gethsemane, which is in no dispute, and also the Garden Tomb, which all godly and smart people know to be the actual tomb. :)

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Model of Jerusalem at the time of Jesus

This huge model is pretty amazing. It's of the entire city, to scale and with correct topography etc. 

Here is a closeup of just a piece of the temple, admittedly the most important piece, the inner court, holy place and holy of holies. Even a model is breathtaking.

No wonder the religious leaders scoffed when Jesus said, "Destroy this temple and in three days I will raise it up." They thought he spoke of the real temple (which miracle he could perform if he wished). But, of course he spoke of his body, which he would give as a ransom for many, but not without the most intense physical, psychological and spiritual suffering imaginable.

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Mount of Olives

The Chapel of the Ascension, on top of the Mount of Olives, is an altogether plain structure, as you can see. A rather welcome change after some of the ostentatious sites we've visited. Jesus, though God, was a fairly humble fellow. So this mount is where he left the disciples to return to his Father, and where, if we understand the prophet Zechariah correctly, he will return: Then the Lord will go out and fight against those nations, as he fights in the day of battle. On that day his feet will stand on the Mount of Olives, east of Jerusalem, and the Mount of Olives will be split in two from east to west, forming a great valley, with half of the mountain moving north and half moving south. (Zech 14:3,4)

Originally, this structure intentionally had no dome -- in order to signify the ascension. When the area was conquered by Saladin, he spared the site and converted it to a mosque. So as not to endorse Christian theology, he closed the top: kind of hard for Jesus to ascend to heaven if he keeps hitting his head on the dome.

The shot of the temple mount is from the Mount of Olives, showing the geography that Jesus traversed in his final hours.

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Final Day in Israel (boo hoo)

What a trip this has been! Last full day. I think it's gonna be a good one. Then we fly out around midnight.

The food here has been fantastic. I've been very disciplined. Ok, the passion fruit and mango sherbets demanded multiple tastings multiple times. But other than that, I've followed a John the Baptist diet--minus the locusts. Well, maybe it was the King Herod diet. Who knows what it's called, but it sure tasted good.





I probably shouldn't share this, being a pastor and all that, but put this under the category of real life in Israel. My room mate, Tom is a retired army colonel chaplain. Great guy, real jokester. He's a vegetarian, which has an upside and a distinct downside when certain veges are consumed in large quantities. When, in the middle of the night, he broke wind, I thought it was the call of the shofar ram's horn summoning soldiers to the walls for battle.

Here he is in front of Elijah's statue, Mount Carmel.

Bethlehem: Church of the Nativity

The Church of the Nativity is just by Bethlehem Square and within sight and earshot of the local mosque. When we arrived, a mullah was behind the microphone calling muslims to prayer over a very effective soundsystem with speakers pointing every direction of the compass up in the minaret.












There's a lot of poverty in Bethlehem. After 9/11 tours to this city, which is so dependent on tourism, stopped. In recent years, they've picked up again, but unemployment is high and the wall doesn't really help facilitate commerce with Israel. Neither does suicide attacks.

When we were in the square a couple of little Palestinian boys tried to pick the pockets of one of the guys in our group, which isn't good advertising for them or their cause. All very sad.

The Church of the Nativity purports to be the place where Jesus was born, and it may well be. After all, we know the "stable" to be a cave not something out a John Wayne Western. So this grotto may well be the place. The star on the right is the "very spot" Jesus was born. Hmmm.

And on the left is the "very place" Jesus' cradle was placed. Hmmm.
The possible birthplace of Jesus was so wrapped up in ritual and even competition from the three church branches that inhabit the Church of the Nativity, that it was all a bit of a downer, though certainly interesting from a purely historical point of view. Again, kind of sad to see the "Christianized magic" that is associated with sacred places and objects. The One who is venerated in this way was so not into that kind of thing.

Bethlehem: Shepherds Abiding in the Fields

Visiting a place like Bethlehem evokes so many different emotions. Just speaking the name brings back memories of candle-light services singing "Silent Night" and "O Little Town of Bethlehem. Memories of kids reading "There were shepherds abiding in the fields keeping watch over their flocks by night." Memories of fireplaces and fun family times.

Seeing the fields where the shepherds hung out and where the angels and the glory of the Lord appeared was pretty amazing, even if they are terraced and covered with trash and surrounded by homes now.

Sadly, we didn't have time to stop of for a coffee at the the Bethlehem Starbuck's, everyone's favorite for a cup of coffee, quality guaranteed. Looks like the head office in Seattle has decided on a bit of a name change, though. Glad they've kept the logo and green colors, though. Hope the coffee isn't green.

Bethlehem is a mix of Christians and Muslims

Bethlehem: The Wall

The city of David, the birthplace of Jesus, is both inspiring and depressing. It's just 5 miles from Jerusalem geographically, but a million miles away in every other respect. The "Love and Peace" slogan outside the entrance to Bethlehem is a nice sentiment, but little more than a dream.

The city is surrounded by a massive security wall to keep suicide bombers in. So far, so good. The U.N. isn't too happy, however, and considers it a violation of the Palestinian's human rights.

It's an ongoing downward spiral where frustration breeds extremism and violence, which is responded to with extremely restrictive measures, which breeds more resentment.

Some of the murals painted on the inside of the wall betray the pain and the mood. This one calls for "Fresh Jewce."

After leaving a Palestinian Christian's shop, we climbed on the bus and queued to get through Checkpoint Charlie or Abdul. While the soldier in the booth was playing Solitaire on a laptop, two soldiers with uzis came on board to make sure Mohammed wasn't hiding under our seats with explosives strapped around his waist.

 In a lighter moment, one of the pastors texted his head deacon right before Sunday services back in the States were about to begin and told him there were soldiers on the bus with submachine guns checking for terrorists. Then his cell phone died and all communications ceased. We're not sure if they will have canceled the service for an intense prayer meeting, or if revival will have broken out.

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Jerusalem in the Last Days

Isaiah 24 is a remarkable, chilling chapter, culminating in this promise:

²¹ In that day the Lord will punish
the powers in the heavens above
and the kings on the earth below.
²² They will be herded together
like prisoners bound in a dungeon;
they will be shut up in prison
and be punished after many days.
²³ The moon will be abashed, the sun ashamed;
for the Lord Almighty will reign
on Mount Zion and in Jerusalem,
and before its elders, gloriously.

The Western/Wailing Wall

The morning was spent exploring inside and outside the old city (the 14 stations of the cross on the Via Dolorosa, a number of churches, the bazaar, the new Temple Archaeology center, to name a few).

The Western Wall and other original remains of the temple (rubble from General Titus' sacking of the temple, and the original steps that Jesus walked on), were the highlights for me. This city has so much history from its first settlement in 3500 BC to when Abraham almost sacrificed Isaac on Mt Moriah (the temple mount) through to Jesus' trial and crucifixion to the destruction of Jerusalem (which Jesus predicted) to the Byzantine, Muslim, Crusader, Ottoman, British Mandate and now Reconstituted Israeli periods. Perhaps no one single piece of real estate in the world has been fought over as much or had such significance in world affairs as this little city of Jerusalem. I can't wait to grab 3 or 4 books on it to read right away, and come back for a month sometime just to explore and learn.

Our guide took us to the synagogue area which connects to the wall to the left of the photo above. Men and boys were praying, touching the wall, reading Torah and studying the commentaries of the rabbis (photo to the right). We had to put a yarmulke on our heads to be able to go to the wall and pray. In the photo below, men are putting on teffilin (phylacteries: Scripture bound to their left arms and foreheads in small leather boxes).

It was an incredibly moving experience praying at this wall which was part of the temple in Jesus' day. My prayer was that these people who have been chosen by God, but have rejected His Son and the salvation He offers, might have the blinders taken off. In this country of over seven million wonderful people, it is estimated that there are probably only 4000-5000 genuine followers of Christ in the whole nation. Our guide can cite New Testament events, passages and theology with great precision, but at the end of the day, it's just a quaint belief system to him. Incredibly sad.

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.5

Some Little-Known History on the Dome of the Rock Mosque

When the Israeli Defense Forces took Jerusalem, the following exchange took place between Uzi Narkis, the commanding officer, and Rabbi Goren, a general and the military's chief rabbi:

GOREN: General! General! Now is the time! Do it!
NARKIS: Do what, Rabbi!
GOREN: One hundred explosives. In the Mosque of Omar. That's all we need. That's enough. The whole thing will come down, and once and for all we'll be done with it.
NARKIS: Rabbi, stop.
GOREN: Listen to me, Uzi! If you do this, you will go down in the history of your people!
NARKIS: I've already put my name in Jerusalem's history.
GOREN: Uzi, you don't grasp the meaning of this. This is an opportunity that can be exploited. Now we can do it. Tomorrow it will be impossible.
NARKIS: Rabbi, if you don't stop now, I'm taking you to jail.

[Told by Narkis on his deathbed to a reporter and recorded in a variety of sources. Rich Cohen, Israel is Real, 266.]

Rubble From Roman Destruction of the Temple

How deserted lies the city,

once so full of people!

How like a widow is she,

who once was great among the nations!

She who was queen among the provinces

has now become a slave.

Bitterly she weeps at night,

tears are upon her cheeks.

Among all her lovers

there is none to comfort her.

All her friends have betrayed her;

they have become her enemies.

After affliction and harsh labor,

Judah has gone into exile.

She dwells among the nations;

she finds no resting place.

All who pursue her have overtaken her

in the midst of her distress.

In the days of her affliction and wandering

Jerusalem remembers all the treasures

that were hers in the days of old.

When her people fell into enemy hands,

there was no one to help her.

Her enemies looked at her

 and laughed at her destruction.

- Lamentations 1:1-3;7 (when Babylon destroyed the temple & city)

In that day the Root of Jesse wil stand as a banner for all peoples; the nations will rally to him, and his place of rest will be glorious.

In that day the Lord will reach out his hand a second time to reclaim the remnant that is left of his people from Assyria, from Lower Egypt, from Upper Egypt, from Cush, from Elam, from Babylonia, from Hamath and the islands of the sea.

He will raise a banner for the nations

and gather the exiles of Israel;

he will assembe the scattered people of Judah

from the four corners of the earth.

Promise of Return from the Diaspora, Isaiah 11:10-12

Gold Minorah overlooking the Temple Mount & the Mount of Olives
ready for Messiah's return

Dome of the Rock

Sent as we stand here

Can we move this shiny thing out of the picture?

The Wailing Wall. And the other thing.

Churches Here, Churches There

We saw some beautiful and extremely moving churches, paintings and mosaics.

 

 

 



 

We also saw some that were unspeakably gaudy. I realise that religious devotion is a strong impulse, but I confess to being thoroughly turned off by well-meaning folks who bring objects (like crosses) to sacred sites (like the supposed place of Jesus' tomb -- very unlikely to be the actual one) in a form of Christianized magic.

Man Reading, Woman Walking

One City, Three Faiths

The three great monotheistic faiths are inextricably linked to this city.

Judaism, Christianity, and Islam each claims Jerusalem as its own.

The Pool of Bethsaida

I'm sending this from inside the city walls as I wait for others to finish their lunch of falafel or shwarma. This shot is from the pool of Bethesda where in John 5 that Jesus healed the crippled man who was not able to get into the water.

This shot to the right is the pool proper. You can see how deep archaeologists have had to excavate to get to the first century level. It's way down there.

Makes you just a little skeptical about all the hype about the Via Dolorosa being THE trek Jesus actually took with his cross. But the line between faith and fact gets regularly blurred in Jerusalem, even as Christians have drawn it. "If the faithful want to believe that something happened on this spot," the thinking goes, "why should we discourage them with doubts about the certainty of the location?" Instead, we'll put up a church where 'x' marks the spot. And eventually, we'll even convince ourselves!

But these. These are ruins. Relics. And they speak so much louder than steeples and incense. Give me these any day.